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Archive for January, 2010

N/P Reducing Bio Pellets to Reduce Nutrients

Icon Written by Geoff on January 17, 2010 – 2:36 pm

In attempt to find another way to reduce both phosphates and nitrates as Vodka Dosing, ZEOvit Basic System, and other husbandry practices changes did not meet goals set for my system, began using N/P Reducing Bio Pellets as soon as they became available in the United States. It is a new and currently unproven system which is proposed to reduce both nitrates and phosphates as a better means than other carbon based systems.

The N/P reducing bio pellets are a solid based carbon source which does not dissolve in salt water which then limits the carbon dispersal to other parts of aquarium. Instead it forms a medium for beneficial bacteria to grow in one controlled location which then will consume available nitrates and phosphates in the water column. The theory is it eliminates the limiting of available carbon therefor nitrates and phosphates would become limiting when an adequate bacterial colony forms to consume all available nitrates and phosphates. The great part about this system, the pellets only need to be replenished every six to twelve months as needed instead of daily dosing which the other carbon based systems require.

The Plan

  • Utilize a TLF Reactor to place 300 ml of N/P Reducing Bio Pellets and a Maxi Jet 900 to tumble the pellets
  • Place the output hose for the reactor in front of the skimmer to help export the sloughed bacteria
  • Increase or decrease quantity of N/P Reducing Bio Pellets based on results
  • Supplement ZEObac or other bacteria source – add 0.1 ml/week
  • Weekly water changes (3 – 5 gal) using Reef Crystals Salt
  • Replace Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) every 15 – 30 days
  • NOTE: Dosages are based on 25 gallon total system.

Goals

The following are goals to determine success:

  • Reduce and maintain nitrate levels near zero
  • Reduce and maintain phosphate levels at 0.03 ppm or lower without the use of GFO
  • Improve coral health and colors

Hypothesis

The N/P Bio Pellets form medium for nitrate and phosphate reducing bacterium to grow in one location instead of throughout the aquarium which then reduces free form nitrate and phosphate levels in the water column without the problems associate with uncontrolled bacterial blooms found in other carbon based dosing systems. The bacterium then is exported through skimming and coral uptake.

Observations and Information

  • 2009/11/23 — Began using 300 ml N/P Reducing Pellets in a TLF Reactor for my nano.
  • 2009/11/23 — Began phasing out ZEOvit Basic System.
  • 2009/11/23 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.09 ppm.
  • 2009/11/29 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
  • 2009/12/05 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.06 ppm.
  • 2009/12/12 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.04 ppm.
  • 2009/12/30 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
  • 2010/01/03 — Stopped using ZEOvit Basic System.
  • 2010/01/17 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.07 ppm.
  • 2010/03/07 — Nitrates 8.8 ppm, Phosphates 0 ppm (Elos PO4 Test Kit).
  • 2010/03/07 — NOTES: Up to 1/17, was performing 5% weekly water changes. Did not make water change until after today’s water tests to determine if impacted results. Not conclusive, but interesting. If it were not for starfish dying and decomposing on my week long trip last week, I would assume my nitrates may have been even closer to zero.
  • 2010/06/09 — Nitrates 0.0 ppm, Phosphates 0.27 ppm.
  • 2010/06/20 — Reinstalled GFO Reactor.
  • 2010/07/03 — NOTES: The pellet tumbling has become a problem as slowed to non existent tumbling of the pellets. Rinsing pellets has helped but not near tumbling when first installed. Ordered the Algae Free Sure Flow 1600 Max-Jet upgrade kit to upgrade the flow in the Maxi-Jet 900 to 1600 gph. Hoping this does the trick as not a fan of the Maxi-Jet 1200 power draw versus performance increase. Not sure if it will do the trick as appears may require the shroud and will not work with stock attachment. Update 2010-07-12: I should have went with my instincts on this. The shaft is too long and can not be modified.
  • 2010/07/05 — Nitrates 0.0 ppm, Phosphates 0.05 ppm.
  • 2010/08/04 — NOTES: I have still been working on my problem where the pellet tumbling has become a problem as slowed to non existent tumbling of the pellets. It appears the pellets are very efficient at growing the beneficial bacterial colonies as my nitrates have dropped to zero. I believe they are what is causing the pellets to start sticking or “gluing” together. I can rinse the pellets so the brown film is almost off and they will tumble good for a couple days. Then they slowly build up this film and stop tumbling. I am out of options for putting a larger pump because I have limited space. I did upgrade from Maxi-Jet 900 to a Maxi-Jet 1200 but did not solve the problem.

    My LFS recommended trying one of the newer pellet brands as they are smaller in size and are suppose to tumble more and eliminate the problem I am having. They also recommend I replace my TLF Phosban 150 with the NextReef BioReactor which is designed for them and do much better job tumbling them. Will proceed trying different alternatives starting with easiest and cheapest first.

    First, start by chopping my current Bio Pellets into smaller pieces, observing, and then making determination on what to try next if it did not solve problem. Options after this still available, try cramming the Tunze 1073.020 pump in sump area (Cardiff, Salona sister, nano tank), NextReef BioReactor, or drilling tank to equip with a real sump and upgrade all equipment which may include the tank.

  • 2010/08/05 — NOTES: Used the food processor to reduce my current Bio Pellets to half the original size, reinstalled reactor, and saw no significant improvement. Did do a much better job cleaning pellets which are shinny white again.

    Going to try the Tunze Recirculation Pump/Powerhead Silence 1073.020 which will produce up to 634 GPH at 30 watts with dimensions of 4 1/2″ x 2 3/4″ x 3 3/4″ which is similar to the Maxi-Jet 1200 up to 295 gph at 20 watts and dimensions of 3.5″ L x 2″ W x 3.25″ H. Based on measurements, should fit in compartment two where currently have the Maxi-Jet installed. Current selling price is $81.75 but out of stock or limited quantity at all the major online retailers. Going to be a few weeks/months before purchasing.

Using Lamotte Nitrate test kit and Hanna Low Resolution Phosphate Photometer (accuracy ±0.04 mg/L, ±4% of reading) unless otherwise noted.

Conclusions

To be determined as my experiment is still in progress.

DISCLAIMER: Your results may very as each system is very different from another. For my tank parameters and environment, this was my observations and conclusion. This was not a controlled experiment so there is a potential for a very large margin of error. I would like to see some good scientific experiments on the subject.

References

Adams, Jake. “ULNS Is a Load of Detritus: an Ultra Low Nutrient ‘System’ is a Desert.” ReefBuilders. 29 October 2009. http://reefbuilders.com/…./. Accessed 15 March 2010.

Hessen, Dag O., Thomas R. Anderson. “Excess carbon in aquatic organisms and ecosystems: Physiological, ecological, and evolutionary implications.” Limnol. Oceanogr., 53(4), 2008, 1685–1696. American Society of Limnology and Oceanography, Inc. http://www.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_53/issue_4/1685.pdf. Accessed 10 May 2009.

Holmes-Farley, Randy. “Phosphate and the Reef Aquarium.” Reefkeeping Magazine. September 2006. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php. Accessed 12 May 2009.

“ULNS Is Not Really L and Far From UL.” Grumpy Old Reefer. 28 October 2009. http://grumpyreefer.net/…./. Accessed 15 November 2009.




Waterman Zoanthid Coral (Zoanthid sp)

Icon Written by Geoff on January 8, 2010 – 7:59 pm



Waterman Zoanthid Coral – Zoanthid sp

  • Date Added: 01/07/2010
  • Tank: Pico 3 gallon
  • Status: Active
  • Purchased at: FAIOS
  • Cost: $3.00 (3 polyps)
  • Coloration: Light green skirt, gray mouth, orange plate, and dark ring around plate.
  • Lighting: 2 x 40w PC
  • More Info: They are easy to maintain, making them a good choice for the beginner reef aquarists. They will reproduce easily in the reef aquarium by budding (splitting off a portion of their base or mouth), which will increase the size of their colony.

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ORA Orange Montipora Digitata Coral (Montipora digitata)

Icon Written by Geoff on January 8, 2010 – 7:50 pm



(Temporary Picture from Web until and purchase some better photo optics)

Orange Montipora Digitata Coral – Aquacultured, ORA™ (Montipora digitata)

  • Date Added: 01/08/2010
  • Tank: Cardiff
  • Status: Active
  • Purchased at: Coral Corral
  • Cost: $30.00
  • Coloration: Orange polyps with lighter growth tips and turns to more pink color in high intensity lights
  • Lighting: 250w MH 14000K Phoenix

General Information

  • Description: Digitata corals will generally grow upright branches, but this growth is highly variable depending on its environmental conditions.
  • Common Names: Velvet Branch, Velvet Finger Coral
  • Light and Flow: For optimum coloration, it should be given a medium to high light levels such as T5 or metal halide lighting combined with medium to strong intermittent water current within the aquarium.
  • Supplements: It will require maintaining stable levels of calcium, magnesium, pH, alkalinity, and other trace elements as you would with other types of SPS corals. It is essential for SPS health to keep nutrients such as nitrates and phosphates near undetectable levels.
  • Feeding: While it does not require additional food to maintain its health, it will feed on micro-plankton and foods designed for filter feeding invertebrates.
  • More Information: ORA has taken the time to collect, identify and culture some of the fastest growing and finest strains of various stony coral genera. They culture the most colorful examples of these genera, and have developed some of the most popular corals ever available. The advanced quality control methods used at ORA ensure only problem-free specimens are sold.

    ORA corals are grown in their greenhouse culture facilities in Florida and the Marshall Islands. They are under shaded sunlight, complemented by 250 Watt, 10,000K double-ended HQI Metal Halide lights. They are fully ready to be acclimated to aquarium light, water and flow conditions. They are grown in natural seawater so proper acclimation to artificial saltwater is recommended.

    ORA frags grown on plastic plugs can be mounted in a number of different ways. Many hobbyists just place the plug between pieces of live rock. Another method is to drill a 1/2″ diameter hole in the rock and simply place the plug in the hole. This method can be used to mount the coral at different angles. Some aquarists simply snap the coral off the plug and use epoxy to mount it to the rock.

References

Riddle, Dana. “Montipora digitata: A Stony Coral for All Hobbyists.” Advanced Aquarist’s Online Magazine. Jan 2008. Reefs.org Publication. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/1/aafeature2. Accessed 08 Jan 2010.

Additional Photos:


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