Companies continue to develop and market new salts on a regular basis with many claims about their salt mixes. E.S.V. is latest company to develop a specialty salt. The B-ionic Salt mix is a multi-part mix consisting of four parts, two dry mixes and two liquid solutions. The dry mixes consists of dry “ultra-low heavy metal” Sodium Chloride and “USP grade” Magnesium Sulfate. The trace elements, calcium, and carbonates are pre-dissolved in highly concentrated component liquid solutions. These dry and liquid components can easily be measured for any size batch of synthetic seawater. E.S.V. states that provided the base RO/DI water is properly oxygenated, this salt mix can be added to the aquarium in 10 minutes.

The Plan

• Mix salt according to directions in 15 gallon batches in Brute container using power head to mix
• Measure components in grams using digital scale
• Mix salt to Salinity of 1.026
• Measure parameters for freshly made salt after hour and utilize with water changes
• Monitor and track coral health and tank water parameters. Using ELOS test kits to measure Ca, KH, Mg, pH and Lamote to measure NO3-, and Hanna Low Range Photometer to measure PO4 unless otherwise noted.

Goals

The following are goals to determine success:

• On demand salt mixing with little lead time
• Mix clear and eliminate the white-yellow film build up which occurs from many other salt mixes after mixing
• Maintain water parameters in acceptable ranges
• Minimal to zero increase in active time mixing salt
• Stable to improved coral health

Hypothesis

Based on claims from E.S.V., Bionic Seawater System Salt Mix mixes clear in 10 minutes and can be used at that time as long as RO/DO is properly oxygenated prior to mixing. This enables on demand mixing with little lead time to use in normal maintenance or emergency situations when water is needed quickly.

Their claims also indicate unnecessary heavy metals included in larger amounts in many other specialty salt mixes and are questionable for long term coral health are limited. This will lead to better long term tank inhabitant health as these elements do not build up over time.

Observations and Information

• 2010/05/23 — Began using salt mix as primary salt mix. LFS provided 25g system kit to use.
• 2010/05/23 — Made 20 gal batch at 1.026 specific gravity.
• 2010/05/23 — Notes and Observations for initial batch:
  • Mixed clear in 10 minutes as claimed.
  • Relatively speaking, it did not take any more active time to mix the components together as conducted my normal water parameters measurements while waiting for each component to mix properly before adding next.
  • Salinity measured at 1.024 specific gravity (34 ppt) which attribute to not take the time to accurately measure the RO/DI water. To correct, made small hyper salinity batch to get to the desired 1.026. Their instructions do indicate mixes to 1.0235 specific gravity and to use 8% less RO/DI water to achieve higher salinity in range of 37 ppt.
  • After mixing for a hour to aerate, measured parameters: Temp 80 F, KH 10 dKH, Ca 550 ppm, Mg 1450 ppm, NA2 1.026.
  • Completed major water change (20 gal of 24 gal): Polyps of all corals seen extending polyps within 10 minutes with no sliming or stress for predominately SPS / LPS tank..
• 2010/06/09 — Salt residue ring around top of tank is different. It is a clear salt ring versus white ring which I have always had in past.
• 2010/06/09 — Purchased 200 gal System Kit from LFS.
• 2010/06/09 — Made 15 gal batch at 1.026 specific gravity.
• 2010/06/09 — Notes and Observations for batch:
  • Mixed clear with no problems
  • After mixing for a 24 hours, measured parameters: Temp 85 F (pumps heated it), pH 8.2, KH 10 dKH, Ca 550 ppm, Mg 1450 ppm, NA2 1.026, Ammonia/Nitrates 0.0, PO4 0.05 ppm*.
  • Completed water change (10 gal of 24 gal): Polyps of all corals seen extending polyps within 10 minutes with no sliming or stress for predominately SPS / LPS tank.
  • Completed water change (5 gal of 5 gal): No sliming or stress for Zoa tank.
• 2010/07/03 — Made 20 gal batch at 1.027 specific gravity.
• 2010/07/05 — Notes and Observations for batch:
  • Mixed clear with no problems
  • Parameters: Temp 80 F, KH 9.5 dKH, Ca 550 ppm, Mg 1300 ppm, NA2 1.027, PO4 0.11 ppm, K 400 ppm*.
  • Completed water change (8 gal of 24 gal): Polyps of all corals seen extending polyps within 10 minutes with no sliming or stress for predominately SPS / LPS tank.
  • Completed water change (5 gal of 5 gal): No sliming or stress for Zoa tank.

*Using ELOS Alk, Ca, and Mg test kits along with Lamotte Nitrate test kit, Hanna Low Resolution Phosphate Photometer (accuracy ±0.04 mg/L, ±4% of reading), and Korallen Zucht Potassium test kit unless otherwise noted.

Conclusions

To be determined as experiment is still in progress.

DISCLAIMER: Your results may very as each system is very different from another. For my tank parameters and environment, this was my observations and conclusion. This was not a controlled experiment so there is a potential for a very large margin of error.

FTC regulations require that we inform you that we were given this product for review, but our opinion of a product is never affected by how we acquire them. We did buy additional quantity from LFS after first sample.

References

Adams, Jake. “B-ionic Seawater System is a microbatch salt mix that is perfect for nano reefers, large tanks too.” Reef Builders. 14 January 2010. http://reefbuilders.com/…/. Accessed 14 January 2010.

Adams, Jake. “Product Review: B-Ionic Seawater is Good to the Last Drop.” Advanced Aquarist Online Magazine. May 2010. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/5/review. Accessed 20 June 2010.

“ESV B Ionic Seawater System – a truly unique salt mix.” Premium Aquatics Blog. 03 December 2009. http://blog.premiumaquatics.com/…. Accessed 20 June 2010.

Michael, Eric. “New B-Ionic Seawater System, A Custom Seawater Mix That’s Ready to Use in 10 Minutes.” Glassbox Design. 04 December 2009. http://glassbox-design.com/2009/b-ionic-seawater-system-salt-mix/. Accessed 04 December 2009.

In attempt to find another way to reduce both phosphates and nitrates as Vodka Dosing, ZEOvit Basic System, and other husbandry practices changes did not meet goals set for my system, began using N/P Reducing Bio Pellets as soon as they became available in the United States. It is a new and currently unproven system which is proposed to reduce both nitrates and phosphates as a better means than other carbon based systems.

The N/P reducing bio pellets are a solid based carbon source which does not dissolve in salt water which then limits the carbon dispersal to other parts of aquarium. Instead it forms a medium for beneficial bacteria to grow in one controlled location which then will consume available nitrates and phosphates in the water column. The theory is it eliminates the limiting of available carbon therefor nitrates and phosphates would become limiting when an adequate bacterial colony forms to consume all available nitrates and phosphates. The great part about this system, the pellets only need to be replenished every six to twelve months as needed instead of daily dosing which the other carbon based systems require.

The Plan

• Utilize a TLF Reactor to place 300 ml of N/P Reducing Bio Pellets and a Maxi Jet 900 to tumble the pellets
• Place the output hose for the reactor in front of the skimmer to help export the sloughed bacteria
• Increase or decrease quantity of N/P Reducing Bio Pellets based on results
• Supplement ZEObac or other bacteria source – add 0.1 ml/week
• Weekly water changes (3 – 5 gal) using Reef Crystals Salt
• Replace Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) every 15 – 30 days
• NOTE: Dosages are based on 25 gallon total system.

Goals

The following are goals to determine success:

• Reduce and maintain nitrate levels near zero
• Reduce and maintain phosphate levels at 0.03 ppm or lower without the use of GFO
• Improve coral health and colors

Hypothesis

The N/P Bio Pellets form medium for nitrate and phosphate reducing bacterium to grow in one location instead of throughout the aquarium which then reduces free form nitrate and phosphate levels in the water column without the problems associate with uncontrolled bacterial blooms found in other carbon based dosing systems. The bacterium then is exported through skimming and coral uptake.

Observations and Information

• 2009/11/23 — Began using 300 ml N/P Reducing Pellets in a TLF Reactor for my nano.
• 2009/11/23 — Began phasing out ZEOvit Basic System.
• 2009/11/23 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.09 ppm.
• 2009/11/29 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
• 2009/12/05 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.06 ppm.
• 2009/12/12 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.04 ppm.
• 2009/12/30 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
• 2010/01/03 — Stopped using ZEOvit Basic System.
• 2010/01/17 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.07 ppm.
• 2010/03/07 — Nitrates 8.8 ppm, Phosphates 0 ppm (Elos PO4 Test Kit).
• 2010/03/07 — NOTES: Up to 1/17, was performing 5% weekly water changes. Did not make water change until after today’s water tests to determine if impacted results. Not conclusive, but interesting. If it were not for starfish dying and decomposing on my week long trip last week, I would assume my nitrates may have been even closer to zero.
• 2010/06/09 — Nitrates 0.0 ppm, Phosphates 0.27 ppm.
• 2010/06/20 — Reinstalled GFO Reactor.
• 2010/07/03 — NOTES: The pellet tumbling has become a problem as slowed to non existent tumbling of the pellets. Rinsing pellets has helped but not near tumbling when first installed. Ordered the Algae Free Sure Flow 1600 Max-Jet upgrade kit to upgrade the flow in the Maxi-Jet 900 to 1600 gph. Hoping this does the trick as not a fan of the Maxi-Jet 1200 power draw versus performance increase. Not sure if it will do the trick as appears may require the shroud and will not work with stock attachment. Update 2010-07-12: I should have went with my instincts on this. The shaft is too long and can not be modified.
• 2010/07/05 — Nitrates 0.0 ppm, Phosphates 0.05 ppm.
• 2010/08/04 — NOTES: I have still been working on my problem where the pellet tumbling has become a problem as slowed to non existent tumbling of the pellets. It appears the pellets are very efficient at growing the beneficial bacterial colonies as my nitrates have dropped to zero. I believe they are what is causing the pellets to start sticking or “gluing” together. I can rinse the pellets so the brown film is almost off and they will tumble good for a couple days. Then they slowly build up this film and stop tumbling. I am out of options for putting a larger pump because I have limited space. I did upgrade from Maxi-Jet 900 to a Maxi-Jet 1200 but did not solve the problem.

  My LFS recommended trying one of the newer pellet brands as they are smaller in size and are suppose to tumble more and eliminate the problem I am having. They also recommend I replace my TLF Phosban 150 with the NextReef BioReactor which is designed for them and do much better job tumbling them. Will proceed trying different alternatives starting with easiest and cheapest first.

  First, start by chopping my current Bio Pellets into smaller pieces, observing, and then making determination on what to try next if it did not solve problem. Options after this still available, try cramming the Tunze 1073.020 pump in sump area (Cardiff, Salona sister, nano tank), NextReef BioReactor, or drilling tank to equip with a real sump and upgrade all equipment which may include the tank.

• 2010/08/05 — NOTES: Used the food processor to reduce my current Bio Pellets to half the original size, reinstalled reactor, and saw no significant improvement. Did do a much better job cleaning pellets which are shinny white again.

  Going to try the Tunze Recirculation Pump/Powerhead Silence 1073.020 which will produce up to 634 GPH at 30 watts with dimensions of 4 1/2″ x 2 3/4″ x 3 3/4″ which is similar to the Maxi-Jet 1200 up to 295 gph at 20 watts and dimensions of 3.5″ L x 2″ W x 3.25″ H. Based on measurements, should fit in compartment two where currently have the Maxi-Jet installed. Current selling price is $81.75 but out of stock or limited quantity at all the major online retailers. Going to be a few weeks/months before purchasing.

• 2010/10/03 — Nitrates 0.0 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
• 2010/10/03 — NOTES: Have not switched out the pump to the reactor and still clumped together but appears to be still working based on the numbers.

Using Lamotte Nitrate test kit and Hanna Low Resolution Phosphate Photometer (accuracy ±0.04 mg/L, ±4% of reading) unless otherwise noted.

Conclusions

To be determined as my experiment is still in progress.

DISCLAIMER: Your results may very as each system is very different from another. For my tank parameters and environment, this was my observations and conclusion. This was not a controlled experiment so there is a potential for a very large margin of error. I would like to see some good scientific experiments on the subject.

References

Adams, Jake. “ULNS Is a Load of Detritus: an Ultra Low Nutrient ‘System’ is a Desert.” ReefBuilders. 29 October 2009. http://reefbuilders.com/…./. Accessed 15 March 2010.

Hessen, Dag O., Thomas R. Anderson. “Excess carbon in aquatic organisms and ecosystems: Physiological, ecological, and evolutionary implications.” Limnol. Oceanogr., 53(4), 2008, 1685–1696. American Society of Limnology and Oceanography, Inc. http://www.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_53/issue_4/1685.pdf. Accessed 10 May 2009.

Holmes-Farley, Randy. “Phosphate and the Reef Aquarium.” Reefkeeping Magazine. September 2006. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php. Accessed 12 May 2009.

“ULNS Is Not Really L and Far From UL.” Grumpy Old Reefer. 28 October 2009. http://grumpyreefer.net/…./. Accessed 15 November 2009.

I began using Chaetomorpha (pronounced “kay-toe-morf-a”) macro algae (Chaetomorpha spiralis) today for nutrient exporting as I am taking a new approach and attacking my Nitrate issue from multiple fronts which I have blamed for driving my Algae issue. I have already went bare-bottom, reduced volume of live rock, increased and improved flow, implemented ZEOvit system after trying Vodka dosing, reduced feeding after selecting the best food to use with minimal impact on nutrients, and upgraded skimmer.

I bought and installed a Current PowerBrite 10,000K Daylight LED Lighting System brick in the middle chamber where I placed a handful of chaeto. I chose chaeto over caulerpa as it is less likely get sucked into the pumps or spread throughout the sump through sexual reproduction. The downside it is a slow grower and traps detritus. I will need to be careful as it grows in a ball with outer portions receiving light with an increased likelihood the portion in middle dying off and then releasing the nutrients back into the water column. To help alleviate this, I will rotate the chaeto weeky and export extra as needed.

I will ensure I follow a good photo period regime to allow for proper photosynthesis process and respiration during dark period. I have read to maintain a photo period of 16 hours on followed by 8 hours off so not to stimulate reproduction cues for the algae usually triggered by shortening of photo period. Some argue it does not matter and run their refugium’s lights 24/7. So I can take advantage of the pH buffer benefit, I will have chaeto photo period alternate with my display tank photo period.

The Goal

• Nitrates below 4.4 ppm using LaMotte Test Kit
• Phosphates below 0.03 ppm using Low Phosphate Hanna Meter
• Improved SPS Coral Health
• No negative impacts on system

Hypothesis

Chaetomorpha absorbs nitrates and phosphates from the water column as its natural biological process which then can be exported by removing a portion of the Chaetomorpha on a regular cycle thus reducing overall free form nitrates and phosphates.

Observations & Notes

2009-12-02: Removed some of the Chaeto ball as appears I have had some growth. I expected more growth but believe I am not because my nutrients are finally limiting. I have not needed to scrape the glass in a week and it is still clear, bacterial bloom seems to be non existent, algae near undetectable, and coral health has been improving.

Nitrates still tested at 17.6 ppm and Phosphates at 0.03 ppm on Sunday but feel still elevated as the bacteria and algae have been dying and collecting in piles on the bare-bottom requiring me to siphon out a couple times last week. This has stopped as not much more left so I expect to finally see an additional decline in detectable nutrient numbers when I test this weekend.

2009-12-05: Nitrates tested at 17.6 ppm and Phosphates at 0.06 ppm. Disappointed as I expected to see a positive impact by now.

2010-01-03: I am not seeing much growth from the Chaeto even though Nitrates still at 17.6 ppm and Phosphates 0.03 ppm. I am believing the lighting is the issue as should be providing a light in the range of 2300K to 9600K spiral compact fluorescent bulb at 26w. Will need to explore purchasing a clip on fixture and bulb.

Conclusions

Experiment still in progress.

DISCLAIMER: Your results may very as each system is very different from another. For my tank parameters and environment, this was my observations and conclusion. This was not a controlled experiment so there is a potential for a very large margin of error.

References

Borneman, Eric. “Mything the Point: Part Two.” Reefkeeping. December 2003. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-12/eb/index.php. Accessed 17 November 2009.

“Chaetomorpha.” Wikipedia. 12 October 2009. Wikimedia Foundation, Inc. http://www.liu.edu/cwis/cwp/library/workshop/citmla.htm. Accessed 17 November 2009.

Riddle, Dana. “A Different Look at Lighting: Effects of Prolonged Photoperiod, Spectral Quality, and Light Dosage.” Advanced Aquarist’s Online Magazine. May 20009. Reefs.org Publications. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/5/aafeature. Accessed on 26 November 2009.

Schwartz, Gene. “A Warning Sign of Impending Caulerpa Sporulation.” Reefkeeping. May 2004. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/nftt/index.php. Accessed 17 November 2009.

I have been struggling with nitrates for the last six months and have been battling algae for a couple months (see War! The Algae Must Die!!). Frustrated as I can not determine the source of the problem and not sure what to do now, I have decided to attack the problem with a multi approach strategy using every method available to me. What I have done this far:

• Reduced feeding to point I lost a couple fish and LPS heads are receding or dying.
• Stopped feeding for week and Nitrates still maintained at 26.4.
• Changed feed to a Rod’s Original Blend and ELOS sv.M2 to minimize nutrient addition. Use minimal amount to keep fish and LPS alive (5-10 ml Rod’s 50% diluted with H20 spot feed to LPS, 6-8 pellets ELOS, alternating days).
• Tried Vodka dosing. Protocol did not work for me for some reason.
• Tried ZEOvit system and still using with final determination pending.
• Changed skimmer to Euro Reef Nano Skimmer and then Sapphire Aquatics Solana / Cardiff Skimmer.
• Every other day 5% water changes for two weeks. Dropped Nitrates to 17.6 but jumped back to 26.4 in a week.
• Tried different LaMotte test kits with same results.
• Use GAC
• Use RODI. TDS at zero. Nitrates test zero. Change pre filters every six months. Membrane only one year old.
• Tried AlgaeFix Marine
• Regular blowing DT live rock with powerhead to help export build up of detritus
• Regular stirring and siphoning of sand bed to help export build up of detritus
• Increased clean up crew quantity and diversity
• Change filter floss one to two times a day

Coral health has been a concern as I have been losing some Acros along the way which I have been tending to blame the nitrate levels as all other parameters have been in check. Some of my Acros have been growing good and assume they are hardier. When I am feeding the LPS properly, they are thriving but I have lost a few with my attempts to minimize nutrients into the system. Both my leather and zoas are growing great. For last several months, I have not added any new corals to the system as I want to be a good caregiver and hate to lose one much less the many I have lost in last few months.

The baffling point is the Nitrates stay at 26.4. I even tried over feed for several weeks to track impact. Stayed at 26.4. Phosphates maintain at 0.01 to 0.03. Can not figure it out so I am now blaming too much live rock and poor circulation as I am running out of what to blame for the Nitrate issue.

Today, I removed 10 pounds of live rock, changed the rock configuration, and added two of my old Tunze Turbelle Nanostream 6025 Powerheads back into tank along with the EchoTech MP-10 Wave Maker / Powerhead already installed. This was a major undertaking as I had to remove the majority of my corals and reattach. The new layout should create better flow and less dead spots. Time will tell if this will help drive down nitrates.

Update 2009-11-07: Removed Sand Bed and Going Bare-Bottom

In my fight to reduce Nitrates, I removed the sand bed today and going bare-bottom. I have some reluctance to go this route as I love the look of a sand bed and reviewed good articles from some highly respected hobbyist who say a deep sand bed is key to a successful system. I like what I have read about the advantages for a SPS dominated tank being able to increase flow without worrying about sand storms. This was a major undertaking as you can imagine with some preplanning needed for the sake of the livestock I have in the tank already.

First task, start draining tank into an 18 gallon Rubbermaid tub. As soon as the water was to an appropriate level, I started to move all rock work, corals, fish, and invertebrates to the Rubbermaid tub which I placed next to the tank. Third and should have been first task, changed settings on ReefKeeper Elite so only the EchoTech MP-10 and the lights are powered as they have been moved to the tub. Once I got the tank drained and the back chambers drained, I started task of removing the sand bed.

It was amazing how half the sand bed had solidified into one big chunk and what I believe has been the cause for my on going battle with nitrates. Using a kitchen knife, I had to carefully pop the chunks up from the bottom of the tank so not to crack the tank. Once I got the all the solid chunks out, I then scooped out the rest of the loose sand bed using a small bowl and finished with a shop vac to finish the job.

I then cleaned and dried the bottom of the tank getting it ready for a piece of clear acrylic which I had cut to size using the Cardiff’s glass top as a template and modifying as necessary. Many just go bare bottom without anything else added to bottom but I wanted to protect the bottom from rock slides and I did not like the looks of the white PTFE or Starboard others placed in bottoms. I then used silicone to caulk around the acrylic so not to have detritus make its way under and advised by LFS as their starfish have made their way under their Starboard.

After waiting for the silicone to dry for 12 hours, I began filling the tank putting a little in to determine if there were any leaks. I had to make a decision as my craftsmanship seems to not have been up to par as there were a couple leaks back in the rear corners. Do I redo my work or live with it and what undetermined side affects will I have with water between the acrylic and glass? Time will tell as I went with knowing water will seep between the two and over period of time coralline algae will grow over the bare-bottom as I have seen with other reefers with bare-bottom tanks. I do not expect any detrimental side affects and have not read of any issues as I assume most do not silicone their installations. Disappointed, yes, as I like the mirror affect where the water has not seeped between the two pieces yet.

After making the decision to live with the water between the glass and acrylic, I filled the tank using the water I saved from emptying it and another five gallons for what the sand bed had displaced. Took a bit of time to get the rock work back in place and stable as the sand bed had allowed for minor adjustments. After a couple hours, seems to be success with everything back in and running. Now time will tell was this worth the work and I will I see a positive impact on my nitrates and corresponding improvement in coral health.

Observations & Information

Update 2009-11-15: A Week Later Observations

The look is growing on me but would have been better without the leak between the two as the mirror affect is cool but disappearing as the water creeps its way between the two. Initially, my phosphates spiked to 1.0 ppm using Hanna Meter Low Phosphate test kit which I was told to expect and then dropped to 0.04 ppm by this weekend. My Nitrates initially dropped and maintained at 17.6 ppm using LaMotte test kit. I am happy with both numbers and expect my SPS corals to show the same which I will use a frag purchased this weekend as my test to coral health as the frag came from a good tank and has not been stressed in my tank. I would not have done this last test if I was not confident I finally got this nailed down.

My Sapphire Skimmer has been back ordered as the manufacturer was modifying the alloy mesh wheel they were using which was disintegrating in matter of months which I was not aware was an issue. My current skimmer, the Euro Reef Nano, three times this week was skimming great with a half cup of skimmate and then next time I looked at it a few hours later had dumped it all back in when it started to blow its cup for no reason. I can’t wait to get this piece of crap off my tank as the problems with needing to adjust and clean the sponge every day outweigh the skimming performance. It is too bad as it does skim great.

One interesting observation, I have not had to scrape algae of my glass all week.

Update 2009-11-20: Two Weeks Observations

It is real easy to clean the tank and I can turn the power heads full blast so in this aspect it has been worth the change as long as coral health or chemistry does not deteriorate. The nitrates have maintained at 17.6 ppm. In my opinion, it is still too early to tell if any of the changes are having an impact as I assume my chemistry was disrupted as I removed a good amount of biological processes which had established itself which will require others to take hold.

My assumptions from removing live rock and sand bed which increases flow and decreases stored nutrients while continuing to limit nutrient addition: less stored nutrients = reduced algae and bacteria populations = less or slowed nutrient conversion = current detectable nutrient levels fluctuates either up or down until biological process reestablish balance = current detectable levels decrease to near undetectable levels by minimizing nutrient addition. The first assumption, less stored nutrients, is highly debated wether the removal of the sand bed improves or worsens the biological processes to convert nitrates to harmless components.

Update 2009-11-30: Three Weeks Observations and Notes

I have been actually putting off writing these observations in fear of jinxing myself as I am a bit superstitious even with my science background says it is a bit crazy. I have to say, I think I am winning the battle with my GHA, cyanobacteria, and bacteria outbreak as their populations have declined dramatically and near undetectable. I have also noticed some growth and good polyp extension from some of my SPS. My nutrients are still at 17.6 ppm for Nitrates and 0.03 ppm Phosphates but attribute this to the adjustment my beneficial bacterial are making for the removal of the sand bed and the break down of the dying GHA, cyano, and bateria.

As above and the following can attest, I am throwing absolutely everything at the problem which I have researched which may be a solution including the following added in last week as they have been proposed as potential solutions to nutrient issues:

• Reduced my feeding habits even more
• Added chaetomorpha to center chamber along with 10,000K LED lighting to light opposite from DT lighting
• Added N/P Reducing Biopellets to an additional reactor
• Increased my magnesium to 1600 using Kent Marines Tech M Magnesium
• Added some more clean up crew (6 x Trochus Snails) to replace the ones which have died
• Replaced the Euro Reef Nano Skimmer with Sapphire Aquatics Skimmer
• Upgraded T-5 lighting to MH
• Siphoned any detritus build up twice a week (easy to see and siphon being bare-bottom now)
• Upgraded my 5 stage RO/DI system to a 7 stage system (5 micron sediment filter, 1 micron sediment filter, 1 micron ChlorPlus 10 Carbon Block, 0.6 micron MATRIKX® +1 Carbon Block, and 2 DI Resin Canisters). Will need to watch pressure to membrane to make sure not too many stages causing too large drop in pressure to the membrane and DI.

The chaeto has not started to grow yet and the N/P Reducing Biopellets are still forming their own beneficial bacteria colonies so too early to see their benefits.

Downside to performing everything at once, I will never really know what one contributed to resolving my issue while others were only antidotal. I will have to say, I really don’t care if it permanently solves my problems. I believe from what I have read about other’s experiences and information from other web sites, it is a multi facetted approach which is needed when you do have an outbreak.

Update 2009-12-15: Five Weeks Observations and Notes

Algae and bacteria bloom almost undetectable which I am very happy about as best my tank has looked in months. Coral health improving with the best growth and coloration I have seen in my tank. Chaeto seeing a little growth but not much. Nitrates still at 17.6 ppm and phosphates at 0.04 ppm. Lost my yellow coris wrasse today and will not know for sure but blame reducing food too much. I am back to feeding every day in small amounts (Alternating days between 5 – 8 Elos SV. M2 pellets and 4 ml Rods Reef) and will back off to every other day if see nutrients increase.

So far my observable results from a multi approach strategy has been the best plan instead of trying one or two things at a time. I assume I will see a reduction in nitrates and phosphates in near future once the algae and bacteria die off has been fully exported from system resulting in a net decrease in nutrients.

Conclusions

A multi method approach is key to success:

• Limit nutrient addition
• Provide one or more means to export nutrients through natural, mechanical, and chemical processes
• Provide appropriate lighting to deter algae growth
• Utilize a good cleaning routine
• Limit sources where nutrients are stored
• Monitor and control water column chemistry
• Include algae chemical regime (AlgaeFix, Tech M Mg) if necessary and know the risks associated with each
• Finally and most important when you do have an algae outbreak, be patient if you are utilizing every method mentioned as part of solution as the problem did not start overnight and will take as much time or longer to correct the problems

Only attacking the problem with a couple methods, will limit your success and the majority of the time result in failure. What differentiates a novice reef keeper and a experienced reef keeper who can maintain great reef tanks are they understand and utilize every method available and appropriate for their reef tank.

DISCLAIMER: Your results may very as each system is very different from another. For my tank parameters and environment, this was my observations and conclusion. This was not a controlled experiment so there is a potential for a very large margin of error.

References

Borneman, Eric. “The Old Becomes New, Yet Again: Sandbeds and Vodka.” Reefkeeping Magazine. October 2004. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/eb/index.php. Accessed 20 November 2009.

Borneman, Eric. “The Old Becomes New, Yet Again: Sandbeds and Vodka, Part II.” Reefkeeping Magazine. November 2004. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/eb/feature/index.php. Accessed 20 November 2009.

Fellman, Scott. “From revolution to evolution: a look at two hobby trends and their impact.” Reef Builders. 20 November 2003. http://www.reefbuilders.com/2009/11/20/revolution-evolution-hobby-trends-impact/. Accessed 20 November 2009.

Holmes-Farley, Randy. “Chemistry and the Aquarium.” Advanced Aquarist’s Online Magazine. August 2003. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm. Accessed 20 November 2009.

For awhile, I have been battling low pH where it dips below 7.70. I have found it is a common issue in hot climates such as Florida and the fun part about living in an efficient and airtight house as CO² builds up in this type of closed environment. Short of replacing the whole house air exchange and heat pump, here is what I have done to help keep relatively stable pH above 7.70 in my 24 gal tank.
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All of a sudden in the last month in a nine month old mixed reef 25 gallon tank, I started needing to dose Alkalinity (KH) and Calcium (Ca) in addition to the Kalkwasser I was already using with my ATO (~5 gallons week super saturated). I have been using 2-Part Bionic in my attempts to maintain the appropriate target levels of 8.5 dKH and 450 ppm Ca. Magnesium has been at 1300 – 1500 ppm with pH range between 7.96 and 8.34 (calibrated PinPoint pH Probe). Salinity has been in range of 1.024 to 1.025 sg. I am using new ELOS KH, Ca, and Mg test kits.

The Bionic bottles indicate I should not be dosing more than 25 ml per day of each which has not been enough to keep my KH and Ca levels at target levels. I have been finding I need to slowly dose 30 ml in the morning and then another 30 ml at night.

I did switch from Tropic Marine Pro salt to Reef Crystals salt, started using the ZEOvit Reactor, and I am noticing some good growth from my corals when I started seeing instability with my KH levels. I wonder what I am experiencing is normal or an underlining problem with something I am doing.

More Information:
Reef Tank Log

UPDATE: Tank has stabilized at 60 ml/day of each Alk/Ca. I started using two Drew’s Peristaltic Dosing pumps along with my ReefKeeper Elite to evenly and alternately dose both throughout the day.

UPDATE: Tank has stabilized once Ca levels dropped below 600 ppm and was able to discontinue dosing Alk and Ca. It appears the high levels was giving false perception needing to dose large amounts of Alk and set a cycle in place until the Ca dropped to appropriate levels.

References

Holmes-Farley, Randy. “Calcium and Alkalinity.” Reefkeeping Magazine. April 2002. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/rhf/feature/index.php. Accessed 17 January 2010.

Holmes-Farley, Randy. “The “How To” Guide to Reef Aquarium Chemistry for Beginners, Part 1: The Salt Water Itself.” Reefkeeping Magazine. March 2007. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-03/rhf/index.php. Accessed 17 January 2010.

Holmes-Farley, Randy. “The “How To” Guide to Reef Aquarium Chemistry for Beginners, Part 2: What Chemicals Must be Supplemented.” Reefkeeping Magazine. April 2007. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/rhf/index.php. Accessed 17 January 2010.

Holmes-Farley, Randy. “Reef Aquarium Water Parameters.” Reefkeeping Magazine. May 2004. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php. Accessed 17 January 2010.

Holmes-Farley, Randy. “When Do Calcium and Alkalinity Demand Not Exactly Balance?” Reefkeeping Magazine. December 2004. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-12/rhf/index.php. Accessed 17 January 2010.

Reached a crossroads in a decision for my reef tank and never thought it would be about salt as it should instead be for some type of equipment as I have read people having great success with Tropic Marine Pro salt mix. I had been using Tropic Marine Pro but determined it was reason for my phosphate issue I had been chasing for awhile. Each batch I make tests around 0.14 ppm when the RO/DI source water tested at 0 ppm. This was adding up over time with each water change.

I thought the issue may be a problem with one batch of Tropic Marine Pro so I bought another box and it tested at same levels 0.14 ppm after addition to RO/DI source water tested at 0 ppm. This leads me to believe it is a Tropic Marine Pro which is adding excessive phosphates to my tank and not just from food.

I switched to Reef Crystals per discussions I had researched on Reef Central and based on target levels I wanted to keep for my SPS. After some time, I was able to get all parameters near targets and able to maintain over several months through only water changes and Kalk top off.

It has been argued one food source is better than another at contributing minimal nutrients to our closed reef systems. I want to determine which is better based on Nitrate and Phosphate levels of each.
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Upon recommendation from LFS, I started using the ZEOvit System to export nutrients instead of using Vodka dosing which was not successful for my system. Like Vodka dosing, this method is based on cultivating beneficial bacteria which will consume the nutrients in your system so you can maintain a low nutrient system. Here are the following I am using to start:

The Plan

Base System

• ZEOvit – Replace 1 cup every 6-12 weeks and stir daily
• ZEObak – add 1 drop – Wed & Sun
• ZEOfood7 – add 1 drop – Wed & Sun
• ZEOstart2 – add 0.2 ml/day
• Weekly water changes (2-3 gal) using Tropic Marine Pro Reef Crystals Salt
• Replace Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) every 30 days

NOTE: Dosages are based on 25 gallon total system.

Additional Supplements
The following were chosen based on my tank needs and will be started when nutrients stabilize at target levels:

• K-Balance Strong (0.1 ml/day as needed to maintain K at 380-400 ppm)
• Coral Snow (1 ml 3 x week) — Bind TOS
• Amino Acids Concentrated – add 1 drop Wed & Sun
• ZEOspur2 – add 1 ml – 12-21 days — Enhance colors by releasing zooxanthellate
• Pohl’s Xtra Concentrate (1.0 ml/day) — Improve health and color
• Potassium Iodide Fluoride Concentrated (1 drop/day) — Enhances Blue SPS Color
• B-Balance Concentrate (1.0 ml/day) — Enhances Red SPS Color

NOTE: Dosages are based on 25 gallon total system.

Initially, I am not using the main part of the system, ZEOvit, as I did not know I should until further research was completed into the ZEOvit System. I need to find a reactor which can be stirred daily as the ZEOvit reactor is not available as a hang on reactor which I need for my nano. I will continue the other parts to the system knowing my results may or may not be negatively impacted.

The jury is still out on the effectiveness of ZEOvit in marine environment. It is proposed to bind ammonia which prevents it from cycling through to nitrates. There are arguments it is not affective in binding ammonia in the marine environment. Instead it is argued ZEOvit is only good as another growth medium for bacteria and not needed in marine environment. Many say that it is not true and use antidotal evidence from observations of their coral health when using ZEOvit. I hope to test this by starting without ZEOvit.

Goals

The following are goals to determine success of the ZEOvit System:

• Reduce Nitrate levels near zero
• Reduce Phosphate levels 0.01 ppm or lower without use of GFO
• Improve Coral health and colors

Hypothesis

The Zeolite binds with ammonia thus reducing available ammonia to cycle to nitrates. The Zeolites also form medium for nitrate and phosphate reducing bacterium to grow with additional supplementation of the base system (ZEObak, ZEOstart2, ZEOfood7) which then reduces free form nitrate and phosphate levels in water column. The bacterium then is exported through skimming and coral uptake.

Observations and Information

• 04/17/2009 — Began using the base system minus ZEOvit while looking for hang-on ZEOvit reactor for my nano.
• 04/17/2009 — Not using ZEOspur2 until nutrients at target levels for three reasons: go slow, not stress corals too much with new additives, and identify what is impacting coral and tank health
• 04/17/2009 — Started phasing out Vodka dosing by reversing the process. Reducing amount dosed per day each week by 0.5ml day.
• 04/17/2009 — Will continue using GFO and Reactor until the method takes hold and then slowly phase out GFO and Reactor.
• 04/17/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.09 ppm. Changed GFO.
• 04/23/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.05 ppm. Changed GFO.
• 04/27/2009 — Nitrates 35.2 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
• 04/27/2009 — Not seeing results I expected right away. Will be patient but not decreasing Vodka anymore until start seeing decrease in Nitrates. The Phosphate reduction is due to GFO use but seeing it last longer.
• 04/27/2009 — Still not using the ZEOvit portion of system but not totally sold on its need and can not find a hang-on-back reactor I want to use. Read about some in development which would be nice to use.
• 04/29/2009 — Phosphates 0.01 ppm.
• 05/02/2009 @ 7:44a — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.06 ppm.
• 05/02/2009 — Stirred GFO as was caked.
• 05/02/2009 @ 3:08p — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.01 ppm.
• 05/03/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.02 ppm.
• 05/04/2009 — Noticed a bacterial bloom on glass. Reduced Vodka dosing from 2.5 ml/day to 2.0 ml/day as my phase out process for this method.
• 05/05/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.05 ppm. Changed GFO.
• 05/06/2009 — Gave up looking for a hang-on ZEOvit reactor or any type of ZEOvit reactor which would work on my nano. Going to use a TLF Media Reactor with a large pump. For daily stir, will open up the flow for a few minutes and then return to low flow. Will have it cycle three hours on and then three hours off.
• 05/08/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.08 ppm. Not sure why spike in phosphates as GFO reactor appears to have good flow. May be the ON Prime Reef Frozen cube been spot feeding my LPS for last couple days.
• 05/08/2009 — The more I have been reading about ZEOvit system and benefits of ZEOvit reactor over at ZEOvit.com, the more I am being sold the argument ammonia does not bind well in marine environment is not entirely true. Once I have my TLF Reactor modified to accommodate my tank setup, I will be testing this part of the system.
• 05/08/2009 — Officially stopped Vodka dosing in transition to ZEOvit system.
• 05/09/2009 — Nitrates 35.2 ppm, Phosphates 0.05 ppm.
• 05/09/2009 — Began using ZEOvit Reactor and ZEOvit medium as explained on 5/06.
• 05/10/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
• 05/12/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.02 ppm.
• 05/15/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.04 ppm, ELOS Phosphates Test Kit 0.00 ppm.
• 05/15/2009 — Changed RO/DI filters (10 micron, 5 micron, and 0.6 micron along with DI). Membrane only 6 months old.
• 05/15/2009 — Increased ZEOstart2 to 0.3 ml/day.
• 05/21/2009 — Nitrates 35.2 ppm, Phosphates 0.05 ppm.
• 05/21/2009 — Observations: I am seeing great polyp extension from the corals especially the plate corals with their colors coming back and a lot of new growth. The ORA Red Planet has the largest polyp extension, starting to get it’s red color back, with slight green coming back at the base. My tenuous acro which I thought was blue tipped is turning to a great raspberry color with good polyp extension. My Green Birds Nest Coral has dramatically improved its polyp extension and coloring. Its base is turning darker and not looking so wash out. Wish I had a camera lens which could capture the details and the colors I am seeing with my eyes.

  During the daily shaking of the ZEOvit reactor, I am getting nice mulm which is being released and the coral seem to love shown by them extending their polyps more.

  With all of these good indicators, I am struggling to get the nutrients exported. I am purposely not changing the GFO as frequently in anticipation of phasing it out. I need to be more patient.

• 05/21/2009 — Exported some hair algae from the LR.
• 05/24/2009 — Nitrates 44.0 ppm, Phosphates 0.04 ppm (Hanna Meter) and 0.00 ppm (ELOS kit).
• 05/25/2009 — Completed a 50% water change to drop Nitrates. Started using Reef Crystals as suspect Tropic Marine Pro for contributing to phosphates.
• 05/27/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
• 05/27/2009 — Increased ZEOstart2 to 0.35 ml/day.
• 05/31/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
• 05/31/2009 — Completed 25% water change and changed carbon.
• 05/31/2009 — Increased ZEOstart2 to 0.40 ml/day.
• 06/07/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.04 ppm.
• 06/07/2009 — Completed 10% water.
• 06/07/2009 — Increased ZEOstart2 to 0.45 ml/day.
• 06/14/2009 — Nitrates 35.2 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
• 06/14/2009 — Completed 10% water.
• 06/14/2009 — Changed ZEOvit (1/2 L total volume with 10% old included). Will follow 7 day post change protocol (Daily Dosage ZEOstart2, ZEObak, and ZEOfood7)
• 06/14/2009 — Increased ZEOstart2 to 0.50 ml/day (1/2 am and 1/2 pm).
• 06/14/2009 — OBSERVATIONS: Great growth and colors in all corals. Still being patient waiting on nutrients to come inline.
• 06/17/2009 — Nitrates 35.2 ppm, Phosphates 0.02 ppm.
• 06/17/2009 — Completed 20% water change.
• 06/17/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.02 ppm.
• 06/19/2009 — Completed 20% water daily for last four days to drive down Nitrates.
• 06/19/2009 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.07 ppm (Used Tropic Marine Pro so reason spike in PO4).
• 06/21/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.02 ppm.
• 06/27/2009 — Changed Media in Carbon Reactor.
• 06/27/2009 — Decreased ZEOstart2 to 0.25 ml/day and took GFO Reactor offline.
• 06/28/2009 — Seeing bacteria bloom, therefor, pausing ZEObak and ZEOfood7 dosing for a week.
• 06/28/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.05 ppm.
• 06/28/2009 — Completed 20% water change.
• 07/02/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.02 ppm.
• 07/02/2009 — OBSERVATIONS: Once I started using the ZEOvit rocks, I started seeing an increased usage of alkalinity and calcium dosing which kept increasing. I am now dosing 60 ml/day for each and started using Drew’s Peristaltic Dosing Pumps to evenly dose six times a day. I am seeing significant coral growth and assume reason I am seeing increased usage of alkalinity and calcium dosing.

  I finally took my GFO reactor offline this last week and don’t think it was doing much as I had not changed media in awhile and I had to chip it out as it was caked.

  Phosphates have dropped to a good level and nitrates are not increasing past 26.4 ppm. I am stumped to why nitrates are staying at that level and not increasing or decreasing. I will again attempt using water changes to decrease and will confirm if leaching from some other source if raises again to 26.4 ppm shortly after decreasing numbers from water changes.

• 07/05/2009 — Completed 20% water change.
• 07/05/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
• 07/09/2009 — Completed 20% water change.
• 07/09/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
• 07/13/2009 — Completed 20% water change.
• 07/17/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
• 07/18/2009 — Completed 20% water change.
• 07/19/2009 — Changed GAC in Media Reactor.
• 07/27/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.05 ppm.
• 07/29/2009 — Installed Euro Reef Nano Skimmer.
• 08/02/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.07 ppm.
• 08/02/2009 — Completed 20% water change.
• 08/09/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm.
• 08/09/2009 — Completed 20% water change.
• 08/16/2009 — Nitrates 26.4 ppm, Phosphates 0.01 ppm.
• 08/16/2009 — Completed 20% water change. NOTE: Stopped recording weekly water changes at this point.
• 08/16/2009 — OBSERVATIONS: Coral colors and growth are good for SPS. The LPS corals are struggling a bit and blame on my husbandry practices trying to drive nitrates down by limiting food. Hair algae out of control and now seeing red slime algae. Both were not issues prior to starting system.

  Can not wait for the nutrients to start going down and not sure if the low phosphates is due to the algae growth consuming it. Everything else checks out ok: skimming, parameters, RODI, feeding habits, and light schedule. Starting to be more difficult being patient waiting for nutrients to be undetectable with reliable tests as I past three months using this system.

• 11/14/2009 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.04 ppm.
• 11/15/2009 — OBSERVATIONS: It has been awhile since I updated this post as not much has changed as the way of ZEOvit besides a major bacteria bloom which continues and caused me to stop the system for a couple weeks and recently restarting this week. So far, the ZEOvit system is helping maintain my nutrients at same level without having them increase so I know it is working.

  Based on my observations and comparing to tanks not using ZEOvit system, I have not been sold entirely this carbon dosing system is better than any others and question if ULNS is really that important or beneficial to corals but instead LNS as described here. I have sustained STN and RTN in my tank and question if it is my husbandry or the ZEOvit system. There has been a new product brought to market which I am going to try, NP Biopellets. I have been reading on a major online forum about the NP Biopellets as an alternate to carbon based dosing and will be try supplementing this in place of ZEOvit, ZEOstart, and ZEOfood7 to drive down nutrients to undetectable levels without the bacterial bloom side affects and STN/RTN events as I have experienced during the time I have been using the ZEOvit system.

  As indicated previously, I have not happy how things have been going with my coral health due to the increased nutrient load going on for months, the sudden RTN/STN events, and then the bacterial bloom caused by the carbon based dosing from the ZEOvit system, I contemplated, did some serious homework, and made some major changes to my tank. I removed 10 lbs of rock bringing it down to 15 lbs to improve circulation in the tank and then also removed the sand bed going bare-bottom to remove a potential source of Nitrates. Time will tell if these changes have any impact driving the nutrients down to undetectable levels and improving my coral’s health with ability to increase feeding without worrying about nutrient management as my system will handle what I add to it.

  It has been a long road without an end in sight.

• 11/23/2009 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.09 ppm. Disappointed with ZEOvit System not driving down nutrients on its own as nitrates and phosphates are near same level as they were when started system back in April and still have not reached any of the goals, added refugium and chaetomorpha as another means to export nutrients in addition to the major changes I made going bare-bottom and removing live rock. The ZEOvit System has not lived up to expectations I have had for it and from what I have read on other forums, I am curious what the success rate is for the ZEOvit System driving down nutrients.
• 11/23/2009 — Added N/P Reducing Pellet Reactor and began phasing out ZEOvit Reactor.
• 12/05/2009 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.06 ppm.
• 12/12/2009 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.04 ppm.
• 12/20/2009 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates did not measure.
• 12/27/2009 — Skimmer mesh wheel broke and skimmer stopped being used while waiting on new mesh wheel to be delivered.
• 12/30/2009 — Nitrates 17.6 ppm, Phosphates 0.03 ppm.
• 01/03/2010 — Removed ZEOvit Reactor and stopped dosing basics to determine impact N/P Reducing Pellet reactor having on tank chemistry versus observations had when using ZEOvit system.

Using Lamotte Nitrate test kit and Low Level Phosphate Hanna Photometer (accuracy ±0.04 mg/L, ±4% of reading) unless otherwise noted.

Conclusions

Though I never reached my goals, I was some what satisfied with the results of basic system and have seen many other larger systems achieve their goals to limit nutrients to near undetectable levels. I did not achieve my goals in my nano tank. Based on this, I decided to try another carbon based system which is new to the hobby, N/P Reducing Pellets, and may try other new promising technologies as they become available to the hobby. Once the patent for the Algae Turf Scrubbers expires this year, I am sure we will see some companies come to market with systems based on this proven technology used in large scale sewage treatment systems. Time will tell when I will be happy with a nutrient export system which is perfect for my system to achieve the desired low nutrient levels.

DISCLAIMER: Your results may very as each system is very different from another. For my tank parameters and environment, this was my observations and conclusion. This was not a controlled experiment so there is a potential for a very large margin of error. I would like to see some good scientific experiments on the subject.

References

Alexander, G. “General information / explanation to the ZeoVit system.” ZEOvit. 06 August 2007. http://www.zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10354. Accessed 07 May 2009.

“General Guide for the ZEOvit System.” korallen-zucht.de. Version 1.03. http://www.korallen-zucht.de/files/zeoguide_english_1_03.pdf. Accessed 18 April 2009.

Hessen, Dag O., Thomas R. Anderson. “Excess carbon in aquatic organisms and ecosystems: Physiological, ecological, and evolutionary implications.” Limnol. Oceanogr., 53(4), 2008, 1685–1696. American Society of Limnology and Oceanography, Inc. http://www.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_53/issue_4/1685.pdf. Accessed 10 May 2009.

Holmes-Farley, Randy. “Phosphate and the Reef Aquarium.” Reefkeeping Magazine. September 2006. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php. Accessed 12 May 2009.

Kallmeyer, Jens. “Zeolite Filters. A Discussion of What Zeolites Are and How They Function.” Wet Web Media. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/…/Zeolite_Filters.htm. Accessed 07 May 2009.

“ULNS Is Not Really L and Far From UL.” Grumpy Old Reefer. 28 October 2009. http://grumpyreefer.net/…./. Accessed 15 November 2009.

Doing a water change trying to get salinity up to 1.026 instead of 1.024. I thought it was an anomaly last time with the Tropic Marine Pro reading Mg at 1500 ppm but found same reading again this batch of salt water. It is a new patch of Tropic Marine Pro and new Salifert Mg test kit so not sure what to blame.