I have to admit, I missed a big issue when I selected my T-5 light fixture. The Nova Extreme Pro 18 watt light fixture was a perfect fit for my Cardiff Tank and a good fixture. The problem it has is poor bulb selection as Current is the only one making bulbs for it and only has two selections. If I had known this, I would have purchased the now discontinued 24 watt fixture as all the bulb makers are making bulbs in this size. Because of this, I decided to upgrade to a new fixture versus replacing the bulbs as I was not happy with the SPS growth under the Current bulbs and reading others feedback confirmed it was not isolated to my tank.

The Plan

After a lot of research and personal conflicts on staying with T-5s or going Metal Halide, I upgraded my lighting today to Sunlight Supply Lumen Max Elite HQI 250W Fixture and Sun System Galaxy Electronic Ballast 250W running a Phoenix Double-ended 250W 14000K+ Metal Halide Bulb. I based my decision for MH on a couple factors: price and performance.

For a good T-5 fixture for my tank, I was looking at the ATI Power Module 24 watt 6-bulb fixture as it is the best out there right now and hands down has the most recommendations. Problem for me was the $800 price tag which included bulbs and then $100 to $120 every 10 months for new bulbs.

Lighting Options Considered:

• Replace my 18 watt T5 bulbs in current NEP fixture
  • PROS: Cheapest options as I have the fixture which is bulk of the expense, bulbs $90 (6 x $15)
  • CONS: Limited bulb selection, fixture leg broken and need replaced or new custom hanging kit
• Upgrade to an ATI T5 PowerModule 6 x 24 watt system with a Wide Selection of Bulbs
  • PROS: Light bulb selection, flexibility for day and night option
  • CONS: Expensive! $800, need new custom hanging system
• Upgrade to a Luminex Elite Max Metal Halide System
  • PROS: Bulbs cheaper, shimmer affect, new custom hanging system could be swung out of way, and potential new Plasma Light upgradable when technology advances
  • CONS: Cost $400, industrial appearance, heat, my system not able to accentuate with T5s, potential interference with ballasts and RKE, need new custom hanging system

The costs to invest in a new high end T-5 fixture was a concern for the following reasons: a lot of new lighting technology coming in next year or two meaning it will be outdated as soon as I buy it, the great tanks I have seen run MH, recommendations from the two LFS I visit, long term cost, and I love the shimmer affect. The only negative I could find was the heat factor and alleged increase in the electric bill. My quick calculation shows I will only increase my monthly bill $5 per month which really nothing when you think about it. Based on these factors I went with MH lighting and from my extensive homework, I selected the equipment as mentioned.

Installation:

The Goal

Improve coral health and coloration while providing a continuous spectrum over life of bulbs which inhibits algae growth with a cost savings or minimal added expense.

The Hypothesis

Metal Halide light fixtures provide premium lighting spectrum for coral growth and health and have minimal spectrum deterioration over life of the bulb when compared to other lighting technologies available at this time.

Observations & Notes

2009-11-20: For the DIY hanging fixture, I used the following parts to construct it:

• 1/4″ Metal Conduit – Cut to Length with 90 degree Bend
• 3 x 1/4″ Conduit Hanging Brackets
• 1 can Flat Black Paint
• 5/8″ Black Nylon Hole Plug
• 2 x 2 1/2″ Stainless S Hooks
• 6 x Self Drilling Anchors (Holds up to 60 lbs)
• 2 x Additional Nuts Already Provided with Reflector

2009-11-21: After installing the lighting system with the DIY hanging fixture and recommended 16-18 inches above water surface, I notice more light spill over than I am happy with for the tank which sits at the end of my couch. If I keep it at this height, I will need sun glasses to watch tv and sit in the living room. I will need to make a run to the store to get some parts to drop it down temporary to determine if negative affects on heat and inhabitant health and then cut the conduit down to size for a permanent fix.

To assist with the transition from T-5s to MH, I bought and cut some fiberglass window screen into 4 sheets which I placed on top of tank using egg crate as support. I will then follow the rule of thumb to remove one screen every 72 hours to ensure I do not sun burn any of the corals by properly acclimating to new light fixture.

2009-11-22: Purchased two eight inches length of chain, two additional S hooks, painted, and installed to lower fixture eleven inches to lesson the spill over into the room. Will determine if impact on heat transition to tank and any detrimental impacts on inhabitant health before removing eleven inches of conduit to shorten the hanging fixture. Light fixture is now 6 inches above surface of water and bulb is 8 inches above surface of water.

2009-12-05: Finished with acclimation process. Seeing good growth and coloration from a couple acros. Heat a bit of an issue with fan needing to come on every day. Needs to be noted that because of salt spray from the horrible Euro Reef Nano skimmer, the fan needs replaced as one of the blades does not spin automatically impeding performance of the fan. So far, I am very happy with the light upgrade.

2009-12-21: Based on current coral growth and coloring improvement over the short period of time I have had this new set up installed and running over my tank, I made an excellent decision changing to this set up. I have raised the ballast to just over 12 inches above the water surface as a matter of preference and help limit heat.

Conclusions

This has to be one of the best investments I have made for my tank with the biggest impact on my SPS coral health. All of them are growing like weeds when they would never grow after placing in my tank with the old T-5 light fixture. A couple corals I never got around to removing as I thought were dead are starting to spring some new growth. Their colors are really starting to come back and look as good as or better than when I bought them. It is really amazing and would be hard to give T-5s another try even though I know my biggest issue was the lack of bulb selection for the 18w fixture. I have also noticed my Maxima clams are getting better coloring.

I have wondered if going bare bottom had also played a role in the improved health as I made that change about same time upgrading the lights. I have not found a measured difference in the nutrients yet so it is unlikely. I am confident based on my experience and what I researched prior to upgrading the light upgrade, the MH light fixture upgrade is the reason for the improved health.

Heat issues have been minimal but a noticeable 1 – 2 degree increase which keeps my fan going a lot longer than with the old T-5 light fixture. Keep in mind I do live in Florida and keep house A/C set at 78 degrees which typically is used 8 – 10 months out of the year. With the new lighting, my tank will range from 77.3 to 81.2 degrees with mean of 79.6 degrees which is the same as with the T-5s. The tank fan target temperature is 80.0 with a hysteresis of 0.5 degrees (Turns on at 80.5 and off at 79.5) and typically turns on about 2 hours after lights come on and stays on a couple hours after lights turn off with the new light fixture upgrade.

The only negative I can say I have had with going with fixture is the light spill over into the rest of my living room. Feels like I have a spot light on me when I am watching television but I can live with it. I have adjusted the light up and down but like the access to the tank when I have it at 16 inches even though when it is below 10 inches I do not have the spot light on my face. I have also had to move some of my Zoas to another tank or in shaded spot but I had plans to start a 3g Pico anyway as I knew this may have been a problem from some of the research I performed before starting on this upgrade.

I did not measure electric usage therefor can only make a general comment I did not see a change in my electric bill from the previous month. Not a reliable measure but assume it went up between $5 and $10 based on a ball park estimate from the increased electric usage.

To summarize, I am very happy with this upgrade and would do it again but this time from the initial set up.

DISCLAIMER: Your results may very as each system is very different from another. For my tank parameters and environment, this was my observations and conclusion. This was not a controlled experiment so there is a potential for a very large margin of error.

References

Chantelois, Allen. “Light Output of the Phoenix 14,000K DE MH Bulb Over Time.” Reefkeeping Magazine. April 2007. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/ac/index.php. Accessed 26 November 2009.

Garner, Jon. “Metal Halide Lighting Components.” Reefkeeping Magazine. June 2002. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-06/jg/index.php. Accessed 26 November 2009.

Joshi, Sanjay. “Everything You Need to Know About Metal Halide Lamps and Ballasts.” Reefkeeping Magazine. March 2007. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-03/sj/index.php. Accessed 26 November 2009.

Riddle, Dana. “The Best Lamp Is…” Advanced Aquarist’s Online Magazine. Dec 2008. Reefs.org Publications. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/12/aafeature1. Accessed on 26 Nov 2009.

Riddle, Dana. “A Different Look at Lighting: Effects of Prolonged Photoperiod, Spectral Quality, and Light Dosage.” Advanced Aquarist’s Online Magazine. May 2009. Reefs.org Publications. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/5/aafeature. Accessed on 26 November 2009.

Wojtczak, Doug. “Lighting the Reef Tank.” Reefkeeping Magazine. August 2002. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-08/dw/index.php. Accessed 26 November 2009.

I have been struggling with nitrates for the last six months and have been battling algae for a couple months (see War! The Algae Must Die!!). Frustrated as I can not determine the source of the problem and not sure what to do now, I have decided to attack the problem with a multi approach strategy using every method available to me. What I have done this far:

• Reduced feeding to point I lost a couple fish and LPS heads are receding or dying.
• Stopped feeding for week and Nitrates still maintained at 26.4.
• Changed feed to a Rod’s Original Blend and ELOS sv.M2 to minimize nutrient addition. Use minimal amount to keep fish and LPS alive (5-10 ml Rod’s 50% diluted with H20 spot feed to LPS, 6-8 pellets ELOS, alternating days).
• Tried Vodka dosing. Protocol did not work for me for some reason.
• Tried ZEOvit system and still using with final determination pending.
• Changed skimmer to Euro Reef Nano Skimmer and then Sapphire Aquatics Solana / Cardiff Skimmer.
• Every other day 5% water changes for two weeks. Dropped Nitrates to 17.6 but jumped back to 26.4 in a week.
• Tried different LaMotte test kits with same results.
• Use GAC
• Use RODI. TDS at zero. Nitrates test zero. Change pre filters every six months. Membrane only one year old.
• Tried AlgaeFix Marine
• Regular blowing DT live rock with powerhead to help export build up of detritus
• Regular stirring and siphoning of sand bed to help export build up of detritus
• Increased clean up crew quantity and diversity
• Change filter floss one to two times a day

Coral health has been a concern as I have been losing some Acros along the way which I have been tending to blame the nitrate levels as all other parameters have been in check. Some of my Acros have been growing good and assume they are hardier. When I am feeding the LPS properly, they are thriving but I have lost a few with my attempts to minimize nutrients into the system. Both my leather and zoas are growing great. For last several months, I have not added any new corals to the system as I want to be a good caregiver and hate to lose one much less the many I have lost in last few months.

The baffling point is the Nitrates stay at 26.4. I even tried over feed for several weeks to track impact. Stayed at 26.4. Phosphates maintain at 0.01 to 0.03. Can not figure it out so I am now blaming too much live rock and poor circulation as I am running out of what to blame for the Nitrate issue.

Today, I removed 10 pounds of live rock, changed the rock configuration, and added two of my old Tunze Turbelle Nanostream 6025 Powerheads back into tank along with the EchoTech MP-10 Wave Maker / Powerhead already installed. This was a major undertaking as I had to remove the majority of my corals and reattach. The new layout should create better flow and less dead spots. Time will tell if this will help drive down nitrates.

Update 2009-11-07: Removed Sand Bed and Going Bare-Bottom

In my fight to reduce Nitrates, I removed the sand bed today and going bare-bottom. I have some reluctance to go this route as I love the look of a sand bed and reviewed good articles from some highly respected hobbyist who say a deep sand bed is key to a successful system. I like what I have read about the advantages for a SPS dominated tank being able to increase flow without worrying about sand storms. This was a major undertaking as you can imagine with some preplanning needed for the sake of the livestock I have in the tank already.

First task, start draining tank into an 18 gallon Rubbermaid tub. As soon as the water was to an appropriate level, I started to move all rock work, corals, fish, and invertebrates to the Rubbermaid tub which I placed next to the tank. Third and should have been first task, changed settings on ReefKeeper Elite so only the EchoTech MP-10 and the lights are powered as they have been moved to the tub. Once I got the tank drained and the back chambers drained, I started task of removing the sand bed.

It was amazing how half the sand bed had solidified into one big chunk and what I believe has been the cause for my on going battle with nitrates. Using a kitchen knife, I had to carefully pop the chunks up from the bottom of the tank so not to crack the tank. Once I got the all the solid chunks out, I then scooped out the rest of the loose sand bed using a small bowl and finished with a shop vac to finish the job.

I then cleaned and dried the bottom of the tank getting it ready for a piece of clear acrylic which I had cut to size using the Cardiff’s glass top as a template and modifying as necessary. Many just go bare bottom without anything else added to bottom but I wanted to protect the bottom from rock slides and I did not like the looks of the white PTFE or Starboard others placed in bottoms. I then used silicone to caulk around the acrylic so not to have detritus make its way under and advised by LFS as their starfish have made their way under their Starboard.

After waiting for the silicone to dry for 12 hours, I began filling the tank putting a little in to determine if there were any leaks. I had to make a decision as my craftsmanship seems to not have been up to par as there were a couple leaks back in the rear corners. Do I redo my work or live with it and what undetermined side affects will I have with water between the acrylic and glass? Time will tell as I went with knowing water will seep between the two and over period of time coralline algae will grow over the bare-bottom as I have seen with other reefers with bare-bottom tanks. I do not expect any detrimental side affects and have not read of any issues as I assume most do not silicone their installations. Disappointed, yes, as I like the mirror affect where the water has not seeped between the two pieces yet.

After making the decision to live with the water between the glass and acrylic, I filled the tank using the water I saved from emptying it and another five gallons for what the sand bed had displaced. Took a bit of time to get the rock work back in place and stable as the sand bed had allowed for minor adjustments. After a couple hours, seems to be success with everything back in and running. Now time will tell was this worth the work and I will I see a positive impact on my nitrates and corresponding improvement in coral health.

Observations & Information

Update 2009-11-15: A Week Later Observations

The look is growing on me but would have been better without the leak between the two as the mirror affect is cool but disappearing as the water creeps its way between the two. Initially, my phosphates spiked to 1.0 ppm using Hanna Meter Low Phosphate test kit which I was told to expect and then dropped to 0.04 ppm by this weekend. My Nitrates initially dropped and maintained at 17.6 ppm using LaMotte test kit. I am happy with both numbers and expect my SPS corals to show the same which I will use a frag purchased this weekend as my test to coral health as the frag came from a good tank and has not been stressed in my tank. I would not have done this last test if I was not confident I finally got this nailed down.

My Sapphire Skimmer has been back ordered as the manufacturer was modifying the alloy mesh wheel they were using which was disintegrating in matter of months which I was not aware was an issue. My current skimmer, the Euro Reef Nano, three times this week was skimming great with a half cup of skimmate and then next time I looked at it a few hours later had dumped it all back in when it started to blow its cup for no reason. I can’t wait to get this piece of crap off my tank as the problems with needing to adjust and clean the sponge every day outweigh the skimming performance. It is too bad as it does skim great.

One interesting observation, I have not had to scrape algae of my glass all week.

Update 2009-11-20: Two Weeks Observations

It is real easy to clean the tank and I can turn the power heads full blast so in this aspect it has been worth the change as long as coral health or chemistry does not deteriorate. The nitrates have maintained at 17.6 ppm. In my opinion, it is still too early to tell if any of the changes are having an impact as I assume my chemistry was disrupted as I removed a good amount of biological processes which had established itself which will require others to take hold.

My assumptions from removing live rock and sand bed which increases flow and decreases stored nutrients while continuing to limit nutrient addition: less stored nutrients = reduced algae and bacteria populations = less or slowed nutrient conversion = current detectable nutrient levels fluctuates either up or down until biological process reestablish balance = current detectable levels decrease to near undetectable levels by minimizing nutrient addition. The first assumption, less stored nutrients, is highly debated wether the removal of the sand bed improves or worsens the biological processes to convert nitrates to harmless components.

Update 2009-11-30: Three Weeks Observations and Notes

I have been actually putting off writing these observations in fear of jinxing myself as I am a bit superstitious even with my science background says it is a bit crazy. I have to say, I think I am winning the battle with my GHA, cyanobacteria, and bacteria outbreak as their populations have declined dramatically and near undetectable. I have also noticed some growth and good polyp extension from some of my SPS. My nutrients are still at 17.6 ppm for Nitrates and 0.03 ppm Phosphates but attribute this to the adjustment my beneficial bacterial are making for the removal of the sand bed and the break down of the dying GHA, cyano, and bateria.

As above and the following can attest, I am throwing absolutely everything at the problem which I have researched which may be a solution including the following added in last week as they have been proposed as potential solutions to nutrient issues:

• Reduced my feeding habits even more
• Added chaetomorpha to center chamber along with 10,000K LED lighting to light opposite from DT lighting
• Added N/P Reducing Biopellets to an additional reactor
• Increased my magnesium to 1600 using Kent Marines Tech M Magnesium
• Added some more clean up crew (6 x Trochus Snails) to replace the ones which have died
• Replaced the Euro Reef Nano Skimmer with Sapphire Aquatics Skimmer
• Upgraded T-5 lighting to MH
• Siphoned any detritus build up twice a week (easy to see and siphon being bare-bottom now)
• Upgraded my 5 stage RO/DI system to a 7 stage system (5 micron sediment filter, 1 micron sediment filter, 1 micron ChlorPlus 10 Carbon Block, 0.6 micron MATRIKX® +1 Carbon Block, and 2 DI Resin Canisters). Will need to watch pressure to membrane to make sure not too many stages causing too large drop in pressure to the membrane and DI.

The chaeto has not started to grow yet and the N/P Reducing Biopellets are still forming their own beneficial bacteria colonies so too early to see their benefits.

Downside to performing everything at once, I will never really know what one contributed to resolving my issue while others were only antidotal. I will have to say, I really don’t care if it permanently solves my problems. I believe from what I have read about other’s experiences and information from other web sites, it is a multi facetted approach which is needed when you do have an outbreak.

Update 2009-12-15: Five Weeks Observations and Notes

Algae and bacteria bloom almost undetectable which I am very happy about as best my tank has looked in months. Coral health improving with the best growth and coloration I have seen in my tank. Chaeto seeing a little growth but not much. Nitrates still at 17.6 ppm and phosphates at 0.04 ppm. Lost my yellow coris wrasse today and will not know for sure but blame reducing food too much. I am back to feeding every day in small amounts (Alternating days between 5 – 8 Elos SV. M2 pellets and 4 ml Rods Reef) and will back off to every other day if see nutrients increase.

So far my observable results from a multi approach strategy has been the best plan instead of trying one or two things at a time. I assume I will see a reduction in nitrates and phosphates in near future once the algae and bacteria die off has been fully exported from system resulting in a net decrease in nutrients.

Conclusions

A multi method approach is key to success:

• Limit nutrient addition
• Provide one or more means to export nutrients through natural, mechanical, and chemical processes
• Provide appropriate lighting to deter algae growth
• Utilize a good cleaning routine
• Limit sources where nutrients are stored
• Monitor and control water column chemistry
• Include algae chemical regime (AlgaeFix, Tech M Mg) if necessary and know the risks associated with each
• Finally and most important when you do have an algae outbreak, be patient if you are utilizing every method mentioned as part of solution as the problem did not start overnight and will take as much time or longer to correct the problems

Only attacking the problem with a couple methods, will limit your success and the majority of the time result in failure. What differentiates a novice reef keeper and a experienced reef keeper who can maintain great reef tanks are they understand and utilize every method available and appropriate for their reef tank.

DISCLAIMER: Your results may very as each system is very different from another. For my tank parameters and environment, this was my observations and conclusion. This was not a controlled experiment so there is a potential for a very large margin of error.

References

Borneman, Eric. “The Old Becomes New, Yet Again: Sandbeds and Vodka.” Reefkeeping Magazine. October 2004. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/eb/index.php. Accessed 20 November 2009.

Borneman, Eric. “The Old Becomes New, Yet Again: Sandbeds and Vodka, Part II.” Reefkeeping Magazine. November 2004. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/eb/feature/index.php. Accessed 20 November 2009.

Fellman, Scott. “From revolution to evolution: a look at two hobby trends and their impact.” Reef Builders. 20 November 2003. http://www.reefbuilders.com/2009/11/20/revolution-evolution-hobby-trends-impact/. Accessed 20 November 2009.

Holmes-Farley, Randy. “Chemistry and the Aquarium.” Advanced Aquarist’s Online Magazine. August 2003. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm. Accessed 20 November 2009.